Greetings Old House Lovers!

Welcome to my blog! I created this site at the suggestion of friends to share information and answer questions about old homes. I will offer my insights about repairs, maintenance and improvements, as well as some observations about being a landlord with an old building and a vintage pick up truck and about my projects. I provide access to my monthly columns from the “Food for Thought” newsletter. Also here are some brief summaries wth photos showing my old home services. I rely on my readers to help me grow and I value your input. I hope to be of support to other old house dwellers and those with similar interests.

HOW TO USE THIS SITE: You can search inside the site by typing in a subject. You can also view my posts in chronological order. If you have questions about a particular post or about an old house issue in general post a comment and I will do my best to respond promptly. All images and text copyright M. Kafka 2009-2011 and are not to be reproduced or distributed for any purposes other than for personal not for profit use without my express written permission. Information is for general purposes only; and I assume no liability for any damages or injuries sustained based on these recommendations, appropriate experts should be summoned for home repair and improvement and all code and local regulations should be followed.

I’ve loved old houses since childhood when I often visited the large, intact Victorian Queen Anne home of family friends in Plainfield, NJ. I was completely mesmerized by the construction and elaborate decor. I was encouraged to develop my interests in building and architecture. I started doing maintenance on my family’s 1940 Garrison colonial in Maplewood when I was very young. My mother took us to as many historic homes and museums as possible and purchased old architectural books for me. We were estate sale habitues, enjoying peeking inside homes seemingly frozen in the past as well as collecting artifacts and antiques from them. By my teen years the family was gutting and renovating a circa 1900 shingled cottage in Belmar using our own labor and design talents and my stepfather was teaching me more about construction. I studied architecture briefly at NJIT and graduated Rutgers College with a degree in Art History, with a strong interest in historic residences. While at school my parents supported me in acquiring and refurbishing a circa 1860s Italianate town house in New Brunswick. We later worked on a variety of other period homes in the same area. For over 20 years I’ve been preserving and upgrading an 1889 Queen Anne considered the focal point of the local historic district. I am the third owner of this house and it was in a state of decay when I moved in. It contains three sensitively designed rental units added in the 1930s. The house serves as my personal case study and proving ground for various products and techniques. Striving to provide safe, attractive and comfortable historic housing on a budget in this elaborate, state regulated and city rent controlled property with minimal disruption to the residents has been a challenging project. I’ve volunteered with historical societies since the 1980s and have served on the Mayor’s Historical Association for New Brunswick since its’ inception.

Wisteria Hall

I am also partners in a retail booth featuring lighting, hardware and antiques in the Coxsackie Antique Center, south of Albany, NY. Since the end of the 1970s I have collected and serviced antique lamps and lighting and repaired and refurbished vintage furniture. My partner and I are refurbishing the nearby 1810 Tomkins Family farm, the home of a prosperous family which was substantially renovated in 1897.

For about 20 years I have maintained a residence in Provincetown, MA where there is a healthy population of people passionate about old homes, art and antiques. I have worked on a variety of unique early Cape Cod buildings, most notably the pristine 1847 Greek Revival Universalist Meeting House, where I had the honor of refurbishing over 60 historic window sash. In early 2010 I began the slow work of maintaining and eventual preservation of a 1966 Modernist house in the woods there which allows me to exercise my creativity on a familiar era.

I’m a huge advocate of saving physical resources and repairing things rather than replacing them whenever possible and I have an ongoing interest in educating people in how to save energy in their daily lives and make their homes more comfortable and safer with as little stress as possible. I welcome your thoughts and questions and will do my best to respond to them.

For those of you interested in saving energy and money at home here is a link to Hal’s Energy Tips. Hal has been working with these issues for a number of years and has some excellent additional observations that compliment my blog.

http://www.livingstructures.com/halsenergytip.html

Be Secure – Part 2

 

 

If your exterior door is thin or flimsy you can screw a layer of finish quality plywood to the interior or exterior and stain or paint to match.  This will help resist a kick in, but make sure that the hinges are strong enough for the extra weight and that it is fitted to close snuggly.  Doors that swing out are vulnerable and need hinges with non-removable pins or special security pins on the hinged door edge to prevent them from being pried open.  Don’t rely on a conventional knob lock or old fashioned night latch alone to secure a door, a substantial throw bolt is much safer.    If you can’t see visitors through glass in or near the door put a viewer in the door and always avoid opening the door for strangers.

Exterior lighting is important where ever there are dark walkways, driveways or entries.  No one should have to exit an auto or arrive on foot and have to walk onto a totally dark property and fumble at the door to get in.  Danger from wet leaves, ice or possible prowlers is greatly reduced by a well lit entry.   This doesn’t mean one needs to run many expensive lights all night.  I recommend a timer or sensor be utilized – there are inexpensive screw in sensors that allow you to use CFL or regular bulbs.  These let you to choose how many hours you want the light on.   For post or porch lamps that illuminate an area where you want light part or all evening these are ideal but they may need to be reset after a power failure or if someone flips a wall switch controlling the light. You may find a motion detector light that turns the light on when there is movement in the range of the sensor and leaves the light on for your choice of one or several minutes a good option.  These are available as both floodlights and conventional style fixtures or as a separate unit to use with your own choice of fixture.

Making it look like someone is always home is a useful tool in thwarting intruders.  Don’t make the mistake of leaving one interior light on when you are not home.  This won’t fool anyone.  Use several timers set for different periods in various areas.  You can buy randomized timers that change the time lights go on or off every day to confuse observers if you wish.   Consider having lights turn on and off in overlapping sequences between family room,  kitchen and bedroom for example or even having an energy efficient television come on for a while to really give the effect of someone at home.  Of course don’t leave curtains near ground level open or people can figure out the rooms are unoccupied.  Don’t pull all the shades or blinds down so tight that it looks unnaturally sealed up either.

Ask the post office to hold mail, cancel any newspaper deliveries and make sure to have any regular landscaping or snow removal, etc. continued as usual while away so that there are minimal physical clues of being away. Let the police know to keep an eye on your house during their normal patrols. If you have an alarm let the company know or set it on the away or vacation setting as appropriate.  If you have a garage that you park in, close and lock it so people cannot tell if a car is in it or not.  If you park in a driveway consider asking a trusted neighbor to use the drive if you will not be leaving a car in it.

For fire safety when away unplug any appliances and electronics that you can safely disconnect – computers & peripherals, entertainment devices, window air conditioners, etc.  Should there be a power surge these items will not be damaged and there is no chance they can malfunction and overheat if they are unplugged.  Do make sure any smoke, fire, water or burglar alarm systems are in working order and have good batteries.

To help avoid flooding turn off any irrigation systems and any ice makers or other non-essential items.  Get advice from your heating provider as to what the safest low temperature is to leave your house at and to advise as to if you should turn down the water heater.  One frozen pipe can destroy the interiors of a whole house when it thaws and water starts flowing out.  So if you are going away for an extended time in winter talk to a plumber about draining the water and shutting it off, or have someone very reliable checking in to ensure the heat is running and no pipes freeze.

 

 

 

 

Be Secure! Part 1

 

Following up on the home safety articles let us look at household security.  Be it a room, apartment or suburban home good sense and focus are the way to keep safe.

Warmer summer weather tempts us to open windows and doors and let the fresh air in.  It isn’t wise to leave them open when you are in view of them but it is inconvenient to keep closing and opening them as you move around your domicile.  So for safety prune away vegetation that conceals windows from the street and neighbors.  Should someone try to break in don’t give them a place to hide.  Remove or lock up ladders and furnishings that can be used by burglars to gain access.   It is important to have cellar windows that can open for ventilation but these are vulnerable and should have securely installed metal bars that do not allow slim people to slip between them.  If your basement is a living area, make sure that there are two unobstructed exits and purchase security bars that can be opened from within if a window is your second exit.

Depending on how your windows operate windows on the main level can be provided with arrangements of pins or venting locks that allow them to open enough for air flow but prevent them from being lifted or slid open further to deter easy entry.  These are available at hardware stores and can be installed by someone competent with a power drill. Remember that if you use air conditioners or window fans that stay in all season people can push these in to gain entry. It is important to have them securely screwed into place and the windows bolted or secured with a bracket inside so that they cannot be wiggled open enough to push the units through.  If you feel vulnerable consider bars for windows on the main level too – these are especially useful for street level spaces and can be ordered in decorative wrought iron style where budget allows. Or basic off the shelf sliding security bars can be mounted between storm sash and inner windows to lessen the effect and can be painted to blend in.  Again, ensure that there is a second egress from every floor of the home and that there is an emergency egress from each bedroom; use bars that can be released from inside when the window is the emergency exit.

Don’t make your house a target!  It is foolish to leave window coverings open so people can see in especially if you have valuables visible that might tempt them such as computers, large screen TVs or anything else that they might want to grab and sell.  Even more important don’t make yourself a target – don’t let people outside see that you might be home alone, distracted or off guard.   Use window coverings on every window or door people can readily look in through.  Basic shades are inexpensive and easy to install and second hand stores and yard sales often have nice window coverings cheaply.  If you are a tenant in NJ the landlord generally is required to provide a basic window covering and the landlord must provide adequate locking hardware for exterior windows and doors.

A lock is only as good as the door it is on. If your door has glass or glass side lights next to it someone could break the glass and reach in to open the lock.  Deadbolt locks with keys on the inside are available but if you choose one take care that an emergency key is kept close by but out of reach of the glass, so you can open the door swiftly for exit.  I recommend using a layer of ¼” thick clear plastic (Lexan is one well known name) that is cut with at least an inch border all around and is screwed on every few inches inside the door or sidelight – this adds insulation and is very difficult to break.  Put a neighborhood watch sticker on the inside of this so would be burglars see the sticker on the far side of the thick plastic and realize they will have to contend with that layer and hopefully go away.   Doors where appearance is not a worry, such as cellar doors, will benefit from a metal security grate sold for the purpose and screwed on to cover the glass section of the door.  If placed on the outside it should be installed with carriage bolts which are smooth and have no slots so they are very difficult to unscrew from the exterior.  Prepaint to match the house.  Remember to keep securely locked up and do not make departures from the premises obvious. To be continued.

 

 

Confessions of an Old House Lover Part 2

Photo courtesy of Dan Setera

I call houses vessels of memories. There is something essential about them that is almost tangible – I can feel the past, sense the layers of history and the varied personalities that have inhabited an old place. If in the course of repairs or remodeling one destroys too much of the old material this colorful experience is diminished. For example if your house has old stained glass windows but they are drafty a contractor will tell you that you should put in new energy efficient windows. For the contractor this is a quick way to ‘fix’ the problem and requires minimal labor with the ability to mark up something she or he buys wholesale to a retail price for more profit. But the value of the house as well as the joy of living in it is diminished when bland new windows replace the artistry, color and texture of the old one. Still, no one wants a homeowner to suffer with drafty windows. The preservationist will demonstrate that readily available, inexpensive storm windows are proven to bring decent old windows up to par for energy efficiency and will protect them without needing to remove an integral part of the beauty from the house.
Some people desire that everything look new – either in terms of condition or style. Many good homes have been compromised by people who want to be trendy and have the money to renovate and do so without caring about the architecture. If someone lives in an antique style house I tell them to embrace it, do not try to disguise the old nature of the house or make it over into something else. It almost never works out well without an architect and huge budget. Most people wouldn’t put on cheap slippers when wearing formal attire but that is analogous to an elegant façade marred by a cheap porch enclosure or plastic ornaments. For years people have tried to turn every kind of house into a ‘Colonial’, which they perceive as more desirable. They add multi-paned windows, wood-look shingles, shutters and a cast metal eagle. But why bother? A house with a Victorian shape and a tower or a tract ranch home will always show its’ roots.
It is not necessary that every old surface be made to look new. If you overly polish brass hardware it may appear cheap or artificial. The warm, soft glow of aged metal is often more attractive. This comes down to a kind of naturalism, or an organic attitude about old houses. To your house be true. Learn to understand the structure and how it relates to the site, era of construction and style of origin. Rather than impose unnatural looking changes on it or allowing contractors or repair people to remove elements that give it integrity consider the whole house and make changes to flatter it and enhance it. I can never emphasize enough that if you need to undergo substantial repairs or additions that the price of hiring a legitimate architect that understands your kind of house is worth far more than the cost. A good architect will be able to optimize any changes to enhance your home while saving you money. Most contractors operate from within a framework of what is currently popular, readily available, and standard or considered profitable for them. They rarely have the training to do quality design work let alone to properly integrate new work into an older house.
Many of us focus on ensuring our bodies are kept fit with diet and exercise and even assure our autos are kept tuned up and repaired by a qualified shop, using the proper parts so they perform correctly and look right. But when it comes to our home we tend to not see it holistically. A house is a kind of organism, and a complex one, with structural, mechanical and stylistic systems, even in a relatively simple home, to try to assure that it works well as shelter. There is no one size fits all solution. Love your house and take time to be well informed and figure out how to keep it working and looking good by spotting and correcting problems before they get big and avoiding spontaneous changes that might permanently alter the house for the worse.
Considering that new construction has severe negative impacts on the environment in so many ways old house curating is a major form of conservation. I think of us as curators of the planet and of the culture and architecture created by those before us. My calling is to keep the houses good homes for the next folks to come along.

Confessions of an Old House Lover Part 1

warm and inviting old house interior

Many folks reading my column with any regularity probably already knew or have guessed that I have ‘the passion’. Indeed I am an old house lover. As Halloween approaches and old houses take the spotlight (or at least full moonlight) I thought it was a good time to share the spirit of old house love and give some practical information about why old houses can be healthy, practical, cost effective and comfortable choices for today’s living.
I think my mother is ‘to blame’ for my love of old homes. Starting when I was very little I would ride in the car with her and she would point out different buildings and their details. We would take occasional trips to historic sites and she encouraged my interest in such places. Then again my father would take me to construction sites and explain how buildings were renovated or built. At age three I declared I wanted to be a house builder. By age five I knew what an architect was and determined I would be one. Old photos show me making elaborate, carefully balanced structures out of building blocks or other materials at hand. One house in Plainfield made a big impact, it happened to be the residence of friends of the family. I didn’t know what style it was, how old it was or how it had been built, just that it was the most magical place with its many halls, stairs and doors, a beautiful stained glass window in a high ceilinged hall, fireplaces and all sorts of details, each wonderfully detailed or carved. I was given full run of the property from servants’ rooms to carriage house and found something fascinating about each detail I discovered. Surprisingly enough during a recent visit I was able to verify that this house is both as large as I recalled and exquisitely built and detailed
This mid-Victorian house was very out of fashion in the 1960s and was considered a white elephant. The family that owned it was not interested in prevailing trends and the woman was collecting used furnishings and tableware to furnish the house – items that today are valuable but at the time were cast offs. There is a lesson to be learned here; even if something is horribly out of fashion it may still have quality, good design and be superbly functional. If you are old enough you may recall that people used to throw away signed Louis Comfort Tiffany lamps that are today worth many thousands of dollars just because they were out of style! Eventually some things that survive being passé become classics. Those who see the merit in things others cast aside have vision. There are environmental and economic benefits to using old things and living in an existing house. This is part of the mystique of old house love, cherishing and nurturing something others may not notice due to the tarnish of time or neglect and bringing it back to life. There is a sheer joy in being in a space that resonates of another time; sensing echoes of lives lived there, whispers of the visions that created the house.
Imagine; every home started out as a concept, someone dreamed of it and had to figure out how to achieve that goal, had to rally to assemble property, material goods and expert help in many domains. What starts as a daydream becomes a tangible and useable creation for living in. Over time homes acquire a patina, layers of history. Even tract homes that start out identical become personalized and unique. In Long Island out of the countless number of post war Levitt homes a survey only found four remaining in original condition! The rest had been added to, customized and remodeled in distinct ways just as a musician makes their own arrangement from a familiar piece of music.
As a preservationist people sometimes assume I want to freeze things in the past. With the exception of scholars working on historic sites that interpret specific moments, such as Thomas Edison’s office, with his desk famously left as it was the day he died, preservationists live in the current world. The goal is to allow buildings to grow organically so that they maintain usefulness and safety for today’s occupants, while also saving the best of the past and keeping true to the soul of the structure. These are the things the old home lover daydreams about. More to come.

Safety for Tenants – wiring and electrical concerns (Part 2)

Attractive vintage light safely rewired

I live in the same college town I was a student in years ago. From experience as a student, a homeowner and a landlord I see a need to empower and inform tenants, especially first time tenants though the information is hopefully useful for everyone. Let’s continue with fire prevention concerns.

Older buildings were not designed to support today’s electrical needs and old homes converted to rentals often house more people than they were originally designed for. Outdated or inadequate wiring can become overloaded and this can cause serious fires. It is important to take care not to overtax the system. Ask the landlord what the electrical system can handle; especially if you intend to add window air conditioners, an electric clothes dryer, additional refrigeration or use other high power equipment. Some landlords will permit such additional items only if the tenant agrees to pay for the electricial upgrade. But there needs to be adequate wiring for everyday purposes. If it is obvious that there is not enough wiring capacity for basic needs the landlord needs to update but if they don’t one must be especially careful.

Choose your large and small appliances to ensure they are UL rated and well made. Check on line reviews or consumer reporting agencies for the safest, best performing, most efficient appliances – they may cost a bit more but will be well worth it in terms of reducing risks, saving energy and lasting longer.

Power strips are convenient but can overheat and they are not a solution for insufficient power supply. If you must use them consider the type with warranteed surge protection – especially if you have costly electronics. Do not plug many large items into one outlet and only turn on what you need at any given time. Distribute heavy duty items onto different circuits. Heaters, air conditioners etc. need to go directly into a wall outlet of adequate amperage, not a power strip. If your outlets are not grounded do not pull the third prongs out of the cords. Use an adapter installed as directed and buy or borrow a plug tester to ensure a proper ground. Ideally have the outlets updated.

Extension cords and party lights are potential hazards. Never use a cord that looks damaged and never put a cord on a radiator, stove or under rugs or furniture. Don’t leave party lights out all year long – weathering can ruin the insulation and cause them to short out. An extension cord hidden under a carpet once started a deadly holiday season house fire in my town. Don’t use halogen torchere lamps – they can tip over and are fire hazards. Never leave a lamp on near anything flammable and do not use lighting without a proper protective shade or globe on it. Remember that those spiral bulbs contain toxic mercury and should not be broken – handle them carefully and when they burn out return them to one of the retailers that collects them, intact for recycling.

Never use electrical items near water, while standing on damp surfaces or with wet hands. Outlets in bathrooms, near any sink or outdoors must be ground fault protected. The ground fault cuts power the moment moisture is sensed. Usually ground fault protection is an outlet with ‘test’ and ‘reset’ buttons. Or the button may be on a circuit breaker in the electrical panel. If examination reveals outlets in such locations are not protected the landlord needs to update them; check before you rent. Incidentally, if the test button trips it may turn off other outlets or fixtures, even if the breakers are all on. So check the reset button if there is power out elsewhere. Remember that it is important not to put too much trust in protective devices as they are no substitute for good safety habits.

Check for adequate lighting in hallways, stairwells, entries and wherever there may be a tripping hazard or security concern. There should be a working switch at top and bottom of every staircase. Rooms need a bare minimum of two electrical fixtures, at least two duplex outlets or an outlet and a light so look for these before renting, any less could be a fire hazard when people ‘make do’ with multiple extension cords run from room to room, etc. The tenant is expected to replace light bulbs connected to the unit, which can include personal entry areas and dedicated cellar areas, if you have them. The landlord needs to maintain lighting in common areas.

Inspect fixtures before changing bulbs. Never touch bare wires and treat fixtures with care; glass globes can sometimes slip off too easily and break and twisting too hard on light bulbs can damage sockets. If a bulb breaks turn off the power before trying to extract it. If you see bare metal wire because insulation has decayed the fixture needs repair or replacement. It is worth saving nice vintage fixtures and a competent electrician can rewire them. Tenants need permission before replacing fixtures with their own and should save the old ones to put back before moving. Don’t install heavy fixtures or ceiling fans without adequate support. If your personal table or floor lamps need new cords or sockets proper replacements can purchased at a hardware or home improvement store and installed following label directions by someone handy often at fraction of the cost of new lights. A label often states maximum bulb wattage, if there is none 60 watts is generally safe for a standard base socket open fixture and 40 watts for candelabra base or a fixture of either type with a closed globe. If the bulb is too large it can melt wiring. Keep safe and comfortable!

Household Safety for Students and Other Living Things

Many students are living on their own for the first time and there are potential fire safety, household security and health hazards in the average home to be aware of. Over the next couple of installments we will look at risk sources and offer solutions.

Fire safety is imperative and with today’s technology one can minimize risks but one has to stay alert, follow best practices and ensure that the proper equipment is in use and maintained. The landlord should provide smoke alarms outside each sleeping area and in each bedroom. As well at least one smoke detector and one CO detector on each level of the home are usually required by law. Tenants are responsible for testing and maintaining alarms in their personal quarters. Avoid the common pitfall of removing the battery from a beeping alarm, or pulling the alarm down if it makes a false alarm and forgetting to replace it. If the alarm goes off constantly from cooking have it moved and reinstalled properly in another appropriate location, following directions provided by the manufacturer on the box or on-line. When the alarm does go off do not assume it is a false alarm but check carefully for signs of smoke or fire before opening doors to adjacent rooms or hallways.

For a minor fire, such as a stop top flare-up, smother the fire by carefully sliding a large pot lid over it and turning off the burner. Baking soda or salt can also be poured on oven fires to quelch them. Each kitchen should have a fire extinguisher handy. If you are not a well practiced cook avoid risky deep frying. In general do not leave the kitchen area when cooking and never leave the house while the range is on. If you are distracted or forgetful make use of programmable ovens, loud, long ring timers and whistling tea kettles, etc. to help prevent things burning or boiling dry.

When you do laundry be careful to empty the lint trap on the clothes dryer before and after every load – and during especially linty loads. Make sure the dryer is exhausted to outside and verify periodically that the vent is working. Lint is highly flammable and dryers need annual internal cleaning by a knowledgeable person to prevent lint build up. If possible do not store or use flammable chemicals inside the home, if you must then follow all precautions to the letter. Never bring a propane tank indoors and do not barbecue indoors, on a wooden porch or balcony or near flammable walls or fences.

Do not attempt to use fireplaces unless they are up to current building code and have a safe, clean chimney. Make sure that you have opened the damper for proper venting. Due to fire and health risks fireplace use should be kept to the minimum anyway; try putting candles on a decorative rack inside the fireplace for a nice effect and higher level of safety.

If you smell natural gas faintly anywhere in the home check that all pilot lights are on and if that is not the problem call the gas company. If the gas odor is strong leave the house immediately and call for help from a safe distance.

In case of serious fire have an escape plan and a designated meeting place away from the house for all residents. Be prepared to exit quickly in case of a serious fire and call 911 as soon as you have reached safety. Do not stop to get dressed or to take valuables. Just get out and sound the alert to other residents. There should be two exits from each sleeping area of the house. Verify that all bedrooms are considered legal with the city before you rent and this should include them having passed fire safety review. Don’t create makeshift sleeping areas in a space you can’t escape from readily. If you are on an upper level and there is no second staircase or fire escape have a chain escape ladder for the window or at minimum a very strong rope with a loop that can quickly be anchored to a bed, etc. to lower yourself from

Fire prevention starts with you. Many home fires occur from cigarette smoking. If you are a smoker resist all temptation to smoke in bed or in an upholstered chair especially if you are sleepy or prone to nodding off. Restrict smoking to an uncluttered area and have fireproof ashtrays of adequate size on hand. If you burn candles make sure they are firmly stuck into ample, fireproof holders and cannot tip out or melt out or they could cause carpets or furnishings to ignite and do not leave them unattended. We will continue fire safety next time and move on to household security from there.

Brush Up & Clean Up … getting interior painting details right

Many articles and shows focus on interior painting and decorating as quick ways to make a dramatic improvement in the home. While some of this can be great fun some people dread or even skip the detail work and clean up and those aspects are more rarely discussed. It is not a glamorous topic but when done properly it makes all the difference. If it is worth painting it is worth doing neatly. A bad or sloppy paint job really degrades the space. Anyone who can wield a brush can also clean up.
Most interior paints used today are latex. One of the great benefits of this is that wet latex is water soluble and will wash off hands, equipment and surfaces that it has dripped or spilt onto. Oil or alkyd paints require solvents to clean up. Even with drop cloths some paint may spatter, drip, spill or soak through. Keep a sturdy bucket with warm water, a scrubber sponge and some dry rags handy to dry or wet wipe up mistakes as soon as you see them. If you are painting around natural woodwork, wallpaper, window glass, hardware, fixtures or finished flooring keep a close attention on the edges and wipe off any over painting promptly for a truly crisp job – an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure here as dried paint is very difficult to get off, if it can be taken off at all without damage. Caution: do not use a wet brush or wet cloth near electrical fixtures.
I carefully unscrew any switch or outlet covers before painting and put the screws back in their holes or a safe place. Clean or replace the covers as desired when the paint is dry (I recommend inexpensive foam insulators be placed behind covers on the room’s exterior walls to save energy). Don’t paint phone jacks, television cables, smoke detectors, security sensors, outlets or switches, even if these have already been painted. Some hanging ceiling lights have a metal cap which can be loosened by unscrewing a central ring at top of the chain, allowing for neat painting without removing the fixture. You can put a plastic bag over chandeliers or ceiling fans to protect them rather than taking them down. Just don’t turn those lights on while they are covered. Some door hardware can be readily removed but be very careful to not mix it up or lose the screws. If it is steel or iron and was painted originally it can be repainted with metal or spray paint before re-installation for a crisp appearance. Oil any hinges or latches before re-installing. Tape neatly around items you can’t safely remove before painting and remove the tape cautiously soon after the paint is dry.
Do not paint radiators unless absolutely necessary. Choose paint made for metal and follow directions closely; consider this a separate project and don’t do it during heating season to avoid the fumes of heated paint. Never paint valves, moving parts of the stems or air vents on the ends of steam radiators or you will interfere with their functioning. Steel baseboard radiators usually have removable front panels and control vanes, it is worth taking these off to clean or paint separately as needed. Carefully note the individual location and installation method for the covers before moving them, labeling them on the back is a good idea. Vacuum the fins behind them while accessible to increase heating efficiency. Make sure to reinstall them properly; this is sometimes a challenge. Most heating and cooling grilles can be unscrewed, cleaned and reinstalled after painting. Paint build up can impede the function of heating registers so if necessary only use the very lightest coating of paint – here is one more place spray paint is helpful. If you use it follow directions carefully, do it out of doors when there is no wind and on a big piece of cardboard. If the grilles are jammed up with paint already but are of high quality you might try stripping them (removing paint from metal will be the subject of another article).
Remove drop cloths as soon as possible after completion, check for any spatters or spills and wipe them up. Latex paint which is dry but not cured often comes off with a scrubber sponge. If needed try a plastic scraper, gently so that it will not damage the underlying surfaces. A single edged razor blade in a holder (not a box cutter!) can be used to remove excess paint from the edges of glass. Be careful not to damage the paint on the window frames. Leave 1/16” of paint on the glass all around; this “painter’s edge” helps seal glass to the frame and keeps drafts out.

Coping with warm weather power outages

We have become so reliant on electricity for so much of our daily lives that it is necessary to consider what to do if the power fails.
If there is anyone in your household who uses medical equipment that requires electricity or who might be at risk during hot weather if there is no air conditioning plan ahead. Make sure the utility company knows in writing that there is such a situation as this may prevent them from shutting off your power in hot weather & may help prioritize restoration of power. Check with medical providers, senior center and your municipality for suggestions to help those at risk. If the person can travel safely it may be best to try to locate a place that has working air conditioning.
One of the usual concerns is food spoilage. In a well maintained refrigerator that is perhaps 2/3 full food will be fine usually for up to 24 but only if you do not open the refrigerator. Plan your meals to use the most perishable items first, quickly grab what you need and close the door. One useful thing to do now; if your freezer is not 2/3 or more full choose enough plastic bottles with tight fitting lids, ideally large rectangular ones, fill them about ¾ full with water and leave them in the freezer. This will save energy all the time and the mass of ice will keep food cold much longer when the power goes out.
Food preparation can become an issue. Those with natural gas ranges are usually able to cook normally but if your range has electronic ignition the oven will not light. You can however manually light the stove top burners with matches. Those with an electric range can use a barbecue if they have one. Never, ever bring a barbecue or any propane tank indoors, or into a closed porch. Death or fire may result. It is important to stay alert to safe food handling protocols and canned or dried foods kept on hand can be a great help at these times. Check with the town to determine if the water quality will be affected by a power failure and take any recommended precautions. If you are on well water determine if there are any storage tanks you can access in the building or keep bottled water on hand.
Keeping cool becomes an issue of course and this is where intelligently built houses, including many intact homes that predate electricity are beneficial. Since heat rises and ensure that vents or windows at the highest points in the house are open. Doors or hatches to attics should be opened to let the hot air rise up and out from the living quarters. Don’t open the windows on the hot, sunny side of the house; if you open a vent or window and heat pours in close it again. Use your shades or blinds to keep the sun out at very bright windows, or put a heavy towel or blanket up if necessary where heat is coming in uncomfortably. Open windows on the cooler sides of the house, including the cellar. Open some windows at the top to help create a cooling air current. If you have a decent basement have an area kept clear and clean that can be set up as a lounge or sleeping area as this is the coolest spot in the building. If you have a shaded porch, or can lower blinds or awnings on a porch you can just do what folks did in the old days and find a shady spot and relax and try to catch the breeze. You can sleep in a screened porch or balcony as well.
Use extreme care with candles, oil lamps, etc. if you must use them. Always keep them on a firm, fireproof surface away from children, pets and wind. Do not leave them unattended. Have fresh batteries for flashlights and radio, or a crank up radio or flashlight on hand phone service. Cordless phones will not work but phone lines usually work so have a corded phone on hand. Cell phones can be charged in the car if you have the right charger. Limit use of battery operated laptops, phones, etc. to the absolute essentials to prolong their life.
Try not to get anxious or become overheated. Drink enough water. Human beings need to relax in extreme heat to avoid health issues. Take advantage of the quiet to have some mellow time at home. Those a few generations before us would barely flinch if the power went out and we too can live without it by knowing how to do things alternate ways.

Don’t Cover it Up! Bathroom maintenance & mildew

This week I had to remove a damaged fiberglass replacement liner used as a shower and bathtub surround and glued over old ceramic tile. It was a rude awakening to the reality of “fast and easy” improvements. It came with the house, I never liked it and I knew there was ceramic tile underneath. I feared the tile was damaged and I’d be opening up a can of worms if I took it off. The former owners had repeatedly caulked the edges between the tub and the liner. Finally it became impossible to keep the joints clean and I knew I would have to remove all the bad caulk. I could also smell mildew no matter how much I cleaned the bath with vinegar or bleach and suspected it was under the liner.
So I took the plunge – and I don’t necessarily recommend this unless you have another bathroom you can use and know someone who can do repairs should it be rough under there! I was fortunate to have found matching wall tile, though the bathroom is rather old, and I was confident I could make any necessary repairs. I began pulling off the enclosure. I found that even though it had looked well sealed there was substantial, black, slimy mold growth under the fiberglass While the bathroom had always looked clean this potentially toxic mess had been growing, hidden under the ‘modern upgrade’. This is an example of why covering over original ‘working’ surfaces rather than maintaining or repairing them is often bad policy. I was able to clean up using a small steam machine and a single edge razor blade holder to remove the liberally applied adhesive. Some of the caulk and glue was so tough I had to use a utility knife and make repeated attempts, all the while being careful not to scratch or chip the tile or the edge of the bathtub.
Surprisingly enough, aside from where the former owners had removed the built in soap dishes, thus leaving holes, the tile proved to be in almost perfect shape. Looking in those holes I was able to determine that the wall behind the tile was dry and intact, which was very fortunate. I purchased new soap dishes and some grout needed replacement but overall things were better than anticipated. In many cases people have put up such surrounds to avoid having to clean grout or to cover up after they have changed faucets because they cannot find matching tile, they don’t like the color or the contractor suggests it because it is easier, quicker and more profitable for him than fussing with tile and grout. I’ve found that with enough searching similar, matching or coordinating accent tile that can be applied creatively to look ‘right’ is usually available. Sometimes there is a stack of left over tile right in the cellar or garage, other times it can be ‘borrowed’ from under a vanity. Salvage yards and even some permanent flea markets or thrift shops have piles of old building materials that one can sort through and I am always on the lookout for acceptable matches. Plumbing supply houses also sell ‘goof plates’ which are large metal back plates for behind faucets that can cover up old holes.
Ceramic tile is more appealing and durable than flimsy plastic. Glazed tile is virtually impervious to the growth of mold or mildew, while plastic is easily scratched and made porous, making it less desirable. Many products are made to clean and seal grout as well and with periodic maintenance a tile enclosure will stay clean without needing heavy scrubbing of yesteryear. A peroxide based spray bathroom cleaner works well. If necessary at 10% bleach solution can be sprayed on with caution.
If you have a plastic enclosure you cannot remove be vigilant with periodic removal of damaged caulk and fastidious sealing of all joints with appropriate caulk. This is good policy for the joints in any kind of bathroom. The decay of caulk or grout allows water into walls and left unchecked will lead to leaks in adjacent spaces, rot and serious structural damage. Caulks are improving and available in various colors. If you are moderately handy you can caulk well with a bit of practice. As with any caulking job the key is to get the area perfectly clean and dry and free of all damaged old caulk before applying new. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on keeping the enclosure clean and dry off the shower area after each use. If you have an exhaust fan or window in the bathroom ventilate during and after showers to help keep the environment dry and deter mold and mildew.

Dealing with Cold Weather Power Outages

Nowadays we rely on electricity for so many essential services that a power failure is a serious issue during extreme winter weather. Since you may not be able to leave the house it pays to plan in advance. Keep a battery or crank powered radio ready. Telephone systems operate independently and often work when power is out. If you have a battery powered laptop dial up service may work; don’t drain computer batteries needlessly. Cordless telephones will not operate so have a corded phone. If you only have a cell phone have a crank powered charger or back up battery. If your water supply depends on an electric pump keep bottled water on hand. Have bulk, canned or packaged food that does not require refrigeration or cooking, a flashlight, hand operated can opener, matches and basic tools available. Use candles and oil lamps with care.

Loss of electricity usually causes loss of heat; most heating relies on electric controls even where gas or oil is the fuel. Learn how and if you can use your heat during a power failure. If your heat uses water filled pipes speak to a professional to see if anti-freeze should be added and to learn how to protect the pipes from freezing during a prolonged power cut. If you have a gas domestic water heater this will continue to work provided your water supply remains on. If the house is getting cold leave all faucets dripping just slightly on both hot and cold sides to keep water in the pipes moving and help prevent freezing. Keep an eye on this if there are extended periods of freezing weather or if some of your pipes are especially vulnerable. Know where the main shut off valve for the house is and make sure it is working properly to prevent uncontrollable flooding if a pipe does break. Proper insulation of the house and pipes and intelligent plumbing design will help to prevent problems.
If your heat does go out and you have a room with an alternate heat source gather there and close off the areas that cannot be kept warm, even if this means hanging blankets over doorways. Follow reports on the anticipated duration of the situation to determine if it is safe to stay put. Contact someone who is unaffected by the situation and spell out your plans clearly with them if you must leave the house.

If you have a wood stove keep a supply of cut and dried wood accessible. Practice lighting and tending a fire ahead of time if you are not proficient. Always check that the chimney flue is in good condition and open before lighting a fire. An old fashioned fireplace is not very good at for heating, consider adding a passive heat exchanger insert and glass doors to it. If your kitchen range is gas it will still work; if it has electronic ignition you usually can light it with a match, check the owner’s manual for details.
Do not use an open oven to heat the house. They are not engineered for this and can be damaged or create hazardous fumes. You can safely put sots of water on the stovetop to generate some steam, provided you don’t let them run dry. Use the stovetop to slow cook foods and the oven to bake or roast food, letting the warmth add heat to the kitchen. Be conscious of the possibility of carbon monoxide poisoning from all combustion generating appliances. Read up on this and have working CO detectors. Never use outdoor equipment such as propane or charcoal grilles indoors. Never bring a generator into the house or connect it to the house current as it can create dangerous situations for linemen. Never warm up a car in a closed garage. If any symptoms of CO poisoning occur turn off the appliance, ventilate the area with fresh air and move outdoors immediately.
A filled refrigerator/freezer that is kept closed should hold food for 24-48 hours without spoilage. If you must open the refrigerator do it as quickly as possible. If the weather is very cold outside but your kitchen is warm place food that must be kept cold in a picnic cooler outdoors or in an unheated garage or cellar to keep it frozen or chilled.
If the house is cold dress in layers, keep a hat on to retain body heat and avoid alcoholic beverages as they give an illusion of warmth while making you more vulnerable to cold. Sleeping with full nightclothes and multiple blankets in a nominal heated room is an experience many that have lived through bad times or in old houses are familiar with. Our grandparents or great grandparents probably would not have flinched at going without electrical power, some were raised without it but today we have become complete servants to it. Educate yourself now as to how to do daily tasks without electric power and you will be prepared when it fails.

A future column will discuss concerns surrounding hot weather power outages.