Home Ownership … is it in your future?

One cannot readily use measures of the economy or statistics to accurately ‘know’ when the best time to buy or sell is. For the past few decades the housing market has been swinging unpredictably.  When I was young people said ‘real estate doesn’t lose value’ and homeownership was thought of as a somewhat permanent goal within my circle. You saved up and purchased a practical home priced right for your income and needs and then stayed there.  The goal was having the mortgage (if any) paid off so you could enjoy retirement in place comfortably with limited housing costs or perhaps ‘cash out’ and retire to a warmer climate.   The market became very speculative in the 1980s. The increasing commoditization of the home has been a major part of the problem.     I watched as developers built increasingly larger tract mansions though family size was shrinking and the old idea that real estate held value was dramatically disproven.

While some wealthy people have long engaged in ostentation with vastly oversized showplaces, they have had the funds to spare without having to worry about providing for their essentials.  Working and middle class people historically purchased homes sensibly within their means.  But by the 1980s with dubiously arranged larger loans becoming readily available ‘status’ homes; that is generally flimsily built, oversized mock palaces of dubious architectural distinction became ever more fashionable.  The cumulative effect of these homes that were too big, too costly to finance, too expensive to heat, cool, maintain and insure coupled with higher property taxes and often in areas necessitating ever longer commutes and the need to own two autos with all the additional expenses of that was that the entire arrangement siphoned off too much of the income of those who chose these abodes.  Money that might otherwise have gone into savings or reducing family debt was usurped by the cost of living in an oversized place. If their income went down due to job loss or increased expenses the problems escalated.  Many of these homes had been sold at initially inflated values and went ‘underwater’; that is the debt load was for more than the house was worth for resale purposes.   It is a cautionary tale; don’t buy more space than you realistically need, choose a home that is well built, a locale that is convenient with minimal commuting needed and good transit and don’t make a decision based on superficial glamour or emotionality.  Look carefully for the house that suits your projected needs and consider all the various carrying costs to avoid getting stuck with an oversized burden.  A trendy new house may lose cache and value just like a new car does when driven off the lot and an auto that is essentially a military tank requiring a quart of gas just to get a quart of milk is a waste of money and resources unless you have a real need that justifies that kind of vehicle.

The banking industry has gone through dramatic changes and many gainfully employed people with adequate income are not able to easily get mortgages due to complex underwriting rules.  If the buyer is self employed or gaining income from rental property the bank may be especially cautious and discount a portion of the income or they may charge a higher interest rate.

If your goal includes buying a home it pays to plan ahead.  In my grandparents day you had good credit if you paid cash and had no debt. That is a healthy way to live, if one can. But most of us will need a loan for a home.  Today creditworthiness is controlled by corporate agencies and is a numerical score based largely on how many credit cards and loans you have, how long you have had them and how promptly you pay them.   The best assurance of mortgagability is for some the most difficult; put the most money possible in savings, maintain a good credit score and pay off other loans.

To be continued …

 

2012 in review

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2012 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

The new Boeing 787 Dreamliner can carry about 250 passengers. This blog was viewed about 1,200 times in 2012. If it were a Dreamliner, it would take about 5 trips to carry that many people.

Click here to see the complete report.

Ink Cartridge Economy

            Many of us have home printers and know the frustration of spending a great deal of money on ink and having various problems with the cartridges and printers.  It seems that the designs of printers are now getting more complex and the printer may refuse to print at all if it believes a cartridge is out of ink, even if it was freshly purchased.

            Here are some ideas from experience and research.  If you are choosing a new printer check in advance as to how toxic the ink is, how long cartridges last and how much they cost, if the printer will work in black and white when the color cartridge is empty or vice versa and if they can be refilled. Ask if the printer will refuse a cartridge or claim it is empty if you take it out to examine it and put it back in … and avoid such a printer as it is the most obnoxious type on the market.  Some home printers promise ink will last a year and offer many functions but take too long to upload and print documents and have complicated or non-intuitive controls. One even advises “if not using the printer leave it plugged in and on to keep ink fresh”… how ridiculous! I find my ‘old’ printer from a few years ago responds quickly with less hassle.  Beware products with exciting gimmicks that look like a bargain but force you to buy costly cartridges or do not accept refills.

While refilled cartridges (and new ones for that matter) sometimes have problems most of the time I’ve had success with professionally refilled cartridges and they’ve gladly exchanged them if there was a problem. Some office supply stores and drugstores have refill services at a fraction of the cost of new cartridges.  An NPR report stated a typical cartridge costs about $30 translating to nearly $10,000 per gallon of ink.  Save ink by choosing an ‘eco font’ or less demanding font. For example: compared to“Arial”, “Century Gothic” uses about 30% less ink. You can search on line for eco fonts to download.  Find one that you like and make it your default font to easily save ink all the time.

            Read the directions and select the most economical settings. The ‘draft’ setting on my printer is perfect for most jobs, uses less ink and is faster than the regular setting which I only use for the most formal letters or photos. Use the print preview function to edit before printing to save ink and paper.  Your printer should have instructions for routine maintenance, follow them so the device and ink last and perform better.  Look for directions on cleaning ink dispensers or cartridges if they are performing poorly but are not empty. I close and unplug my printer when it will not be in use for a period of time.  Keep it away from direct sunlight and heat to help keep ink fresh.   Note the date the cartridge was installed on a card taped to the printer.  Each cartridge should last a similar amount of time with routine use.  If a cartridge fails much sooner than the norm it may be defective.  I have been able to return such cartridges for new ones; I recommend saving receipts and packaging in case such a problem arises.  Taking a cartridge out and shaking it around vigorously sometimes gets it flowing again if there is ink in it but it won’t work. 

The ink in most cartridges is also toxic and environmentally dangerous so read the fine print and choose accordingly.  There are soy based inks available which are safer.  Remember that your printer is spraying out the ink chemicals when in use and once you have printed you transfer the chemicals to the paper and people touching it or places recycling it are exposed to the compounds from the ink.

       Stores often have drop off containers for refilling or recycling used ink cartridges; you may also find pre-paid envelopes for sending them back to the manufacturer and a number of places will provide you with a credit towards new cartridges or other premiums when you turn them in.   Ask the clerk before you purchase what the policy is for refill, return and promotions.  In general as with anything that is resource intensive remember the guidelines: a) select only what you actually need and choose the least wasteful, least toxic option b) reuse the item as many times as possible and c) recycle the item when reuse is no longer practical.   Conscious choices about your buying, use and disposal habits can really help reduce your expenses, wasted time, and frustration and slow down environmental degradation.    

 

Poison in Our Cupboards

            While the FDA requires ingredients to be labeled on food unfortunately most ingredients used in cleaning supplies remain unlabeled. Many of us have long been aware that some commercial products can cause allergies or irritation and that quite a few of them have caution labels on them.  What most of us could not know is just how toxic and complex the ingredients in many common products are.  But that is changing.

            Recently the Environmental Working Group released an extensive study on over 2000 household cleaning products. Some material in this article is paraphrased from their report.  EWG’s website http://www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners presents useful information for understanding product labels and avoiding products that may pose the most risk. The results are eye opening; 53% of the products rated had chemicals known to cause lung damage, 22% contained ingredients known to cause asthma in otherwise healthy individuals and chloroform escaped from some products containing bleach.

            I’m going to summarize some of the offenders here. EWG recommends avoiding air fresheners all together – in any form – even those that have natural sounding names include chemicals that can trigger allergies or asthma. In addition I’ve read that contrary to the marketing ploys, products that claim to refresh fabric or surfaces in your house or car do not remove the odor source. They disperse toxic chemicals that fool you into thinking things smell clean but can disrupt your healthy functioning.  EWG suggests fresh air or circulating fans instead.  My old standbys – white vinegar or lemon juice – can be placed in a shallow bowl, sprayed from a pump bottle or simmered for a few moments to neutralize odors. Aerosol is so effective at dispensing countless tiny particles into your lungs that it is used for medical inhalers.  Toxic deodorizers or cleaners dispensed from aerosols enter your system just as efficiently.  A friend of mine passed out and ended up in a coma while using spray oven cleaner and had a prolonged recovery.  The trade off of health for convenience just isn’t worth it.

            EWG says anti-bacterial products can spur the development of drug resistant super bugs. The news of the super infections that occur in fastidious hospitals bears this claim out.    It seems that trying to overly sanitize an environment hinders people’s ability to develop immunities. Many suggest washing properly with soap and hot water is adequate and that children are worse off being kept in an unnaturally sterile environment.   

            Next on the list is fabric softener and dryer sheets. I’ve read elsewhere that dryer sheets contain chemicals that can cause depression. I’ve personally had trouble breathing when scented ones are in use.  They warn that these can irritate the lungs and cause allergies or asthma.  They recommend a little vinegar in the rinse cycle if laundry needs softening. I feel we’ve been seduced by advertising into equating perfumed scents with cleanliness. Clean fabric has only a very slight, neutral smell of linen or cotton, etc. and a clean house smells like the outside air around it.  In reality added fragrances are the opposite of fresh.  Are we really fooled or satisfied by artificial scents made of a mix of unfamiliar chemicals? This toxic brew does not belong on the clothing touching our skin or the sheets our children sleep on.   For true fragrance add a touch of lavender essential oil or other natural and safe fragrance to your wash water.

            Two interesting and useful areas on the site are the “Top Products” for safe ingredients and the “Hall of Shame”.  I was startled to see two products in my cabinets have very bad ratings. Natural doesn’t mean non-toxic. Many products with “green” in the name are dangerous.   Surprisingly it seems many dish soaps are toxic and residue can easily remain on your plates.  Make sure you know how to interpret label information and read the cautionary statements on products for starters.  If it says “poison”, “toxic”, “may cause severe burns” or “may be fatal” etc. ask yourself if you really want that product in your home.  Kids do get into things so please be very careful if children are ever around your home.  As a practical matter don’t store dangerous items under the kitchen sink – put them up on a high, closed shelf and have the cabinet lock or have a safety latch on it if children might get into it. 

While it may seem overwhelming one can make changes without much difficulty.  Start with simple, basic, food or health and beauty aid quality items such as vinegar, lemon juice and castile soaps for cleaning whenever possible. Read up a bit on products before selecting them; knowledge is the key to a safer, healthier home.

Thoughtful Consumption Makes a Difference

            We are constantly bombarded with marketing trying to reassure us that we will have ‘the good life’ when we buy the products they are plying.  While certain conveniences are helpful we know we do not need the latest thing to prove ourselves successful.  A smaller voice may encourage us to be smart shoppers.  Many of us are concerned with health and the environment.  But how can anything packaged in plastic be ‘green’?  Can I really make a difference with a light bulb or different tissue paper? What is the truth? 

            I wish I had an easy answer; that we can have what we need and want without despoiling the environment or exploiting laborers.  In this global era it is very difficult to know the scientific, economic and ethical answers.  Fortunately we can tap into a variety of resources to help select the right products and best habits.  Let’s look at a few examples.

            Saving water and keeping water clean is crucial as there is limited potable water on the planet.  The average US home could cut consumption by 10% or more using water saving devices and best practices.  But this savings pales in comparison to water savings we can make at meal time.  Waterfootprint.org estimates the water needed to produce a kilogram of beef at 15400 liters, for a kg of bread at 1600 liters for and for a kg of milk 1000 liters.  It also takes 10000 liters of water to make a kg of cotton.   If you are concerned about fresh water eating less meat frees up a lot more water than just changing an aerator on your faucet.   Likewise, buying fewer new textiles, by choosing durable, classic items or buying second hand and keeping your things carefully will help. Yes, conserve water at home but shift focus; remember how much water is consumed ‘invisibly’ by foods and commodities we often buy without considering the impact.

            These kinds of suggestions inevitably bring about a comment to the effect of ‘but you are putting people out of jobs when you don’t buy more stuff’.  In reality we are simply shifting the kinds of industries that are in demand and moving the labor force around.   I wouldn’t expect anyone to still buy toxins like asbestos insulation or lead pipe ‘to preserve jobs’.   People die from toxic building supplies and from lack of fresh water. The culture has to get clear and switch to safer products and with demand and competition better products get developed.   So if we all insist on more durable, well made clothing and are willing to pay for it the people who produce those items do better. Other producers begin to notice sales of flimsy and cheap goods go down. And more tailors, cleaners and repair people get jobs helping us with things we keep longer.  Producers have to adjust to compete – the environment and our personal pocketbook both win when less stuff is constantly produced and thrown away.  Keeping factories running constantly to sell more goods without concern as to if they are needed, useful or practical and without concern about the pollution from the creation, packaging, marketing and shipping of these goods is ridiculous.   The market gets saturated.   What is sad is that so many people are still easily beguiled by ‘the latest’ item that may be essentially the same as the prior item except for having a new button or new feature. In the big scheme of things is absolutely unnecessary and will predictably end up in the landfill in short order.

            So how do we make a difference here?  Forgive me in advance if I sound sanctimonious.  As the time of Thanksgiving approaches I suggest that everything is more interconnected than we might assume. Consider this with every decision from what you buy for dinner to how you wrap a gift to where you choose to live.  Every time you drop something into a waste basket, every time you hand the clerk payment you can have a positive impact.  And I assert every little bit does help. So be on the winning side with your choices!

The Trees Around Your Home

Very large Silver Maple too close to house for safety being removed just prior to ‘Irene’

            My beloved New Brunswick was home to the legendary Joyce Kilmer Oak, celebrated in the famous poem he penned.  A descendant of that majestic tree grows front of the LaborEducationCenter. The city is designated a “Tree City USA”.  Of course we could not survive without trees.  Urban life is greatly enhanced by trees; they filter away noise and pollution, buffer us from winter winds, cool us in the summer and create privacy and views. Trees can also be a force of destruction and danger.

            As a small child my mother took me to nearby Johnson Park, one fine day I was in my carriage while she sat relaxing.  Suddenly she a huge limb broke away from a tree overhead.  She shoved my carriage out of the way in the nick of time. Much more recently after spending a lovely afternoon mowing the lawn half of an enormous, healthy looking silver maple smashed down on the lawn with such force the house shook and neighbors came running (images on my blog).  By choosing preservation work curating wooden items one could say I’ve spent my life doing penance to the Goddesses and Gods of trees for sparing me. 

            The lesson for me is to be thoughtful about the trees you and be in awe of them; there is beauty and danger without warning.  This is true even when professional arborists have worked on them.  Use great care when choosing trees.  Avoid species known to be brittle or to have shallow or weak roots, especially anywhere near roadways or structures.  Understand the mature height and girth of the tree and its’ root system before planting. Do not plant it where it will later become oversized and create a risk or nuisance.   Don’t plant trees under power lines or over septic, sewer, gutter drainage lines or other mechanical systems.  If you aren’t sure where such things are check with your utility company or an expert before planting.  Don’t plant trees that grow large too close to the pavement or over the roadway or parking areas, opting instead for trees recommended for tight spots.  Avoid invasive species and trees that drop slippery or messy flowers or fruit where people will walk or park. 

If you have a tree that creates a dangerous situation determine if pruning will help or if it needs to be removed.  There are many books and on line sites that help one choose the best options and explain how to care for them.  Smaller trees can be successfully managed by someone who can competently use a pruning hook or saw on a pole or a chain saw.  Always follow all safety directions and never attempt to cut down a large limb unless you have enough experience to know exactly what you are doing. It can be very dangerous.  Do not attempt to do heavy pruning or remove trees touching or above power lines under any circumstances.  In some places the city, county or utility companies will prune trees in their right-of-way so check with them if a tree on the curb strip or near power lines needs attention.  Professional tree services are costly and if you need one it is best to ask around, check references and get several prices.  A good tree surgeon can evaluate your premises and make recommendations for the best treatment for all your trees.  You will generally find that tending to larger trees or those near the house on a schedule will be more cost effective than waiting until there is a crisis and will minimize collateral damage should one fall.

 It is risky to have a tree so big it could fall and do serious damage to the house so trees that are much higher than the house but close enough to fall on it are trees that should be evaluated by a professional for removal or cutting back as appropriate.   Tall trees very close to the house are less likely to build up enough momentum to do serious damage but if they have big limbs over the house this is a concern; if they end up tipping over and just leaning on the house they will do damage and be costly to remove.  Shade trees on the sunny side of the house and evergreens on the side of the prevailing winter winds are priceless for helping to control climate in the house and save energy.

  Nothing is quite as lovely as a vibrant tree.  Choose trees wisely, learn how to site and safely maintain the trees in your area and know when to call for assistance with maintenance to enjoy and share a truly greener life with the next generation.

Addicted to the Grid

            In the aftermath of Sandy there are many lessons to learn and many tasks ahead to make communities whole and safe again.   One major issue is utility disruption.  The scope and strength of the storm created unprecedented damage to the infrastructure. People were without basic services for days or weeks.  Now there is talk of costly moving of wires underground and investment in ‘smart grid’ systems.

            While the clamor for costly rebuilding of the grid is understandable, is it the best use of our resources? Is the current system of large, remote power plants with wires strung or buried all over the best or only design?  What other choices do we have?

Now is a great opportunity to reduce our addiction to the grid rather than entrenching ourselves in an exorbitantly overpriced rebuild.  We must consider the urgently needed alternatives for environmental and safety reasons.  The grid was cobbled together in an era when electricity was nowhere near as essential to daily life as it is today.  People could go about their business without electricity a couple of generations ago and a vast, fragile grid was adequate.  With extreme weather the grid will continue to break down even if rebuilt. The Achilles heel of the system is that any component can fail and can cause widespread blackouts.  Extensive damage means getting the power back on takes a very long time and causes human suffering.

            Imagine instead of total dependence on the grid that we equipped buildings with individual power sources, as we do with cars.  Solar panels or small turbines combined with storage batteries can run essential services.   For example steam heat, often used in schools, government buildings and housing is usually fueled by natural gas (which often remains available during storms) and the system uses very little power, only requiring electronic controls.  Now when the grid goes out there is no heat.  But storage batteries connected to that turbine or solar panels could provide enough energy to keep heat running and keep alarm systems and phones working.  Gasoline generators are not ideal as we saw how hard it was to get gasoline after Sandy.   Natural gas generators are very costly.  A green energy source will keep generating power without needing fuel.  Green systems can be updated over time to reduce and eliminate the need for being hooked up to the grid. How much safer it would be without vast electric transmission lines and crumbling power plants!

            Anyone who has wind or solar array can add storage batteries to make it work ‘off the grid’.  The products are available and we can focus on this instead of replacing the grid.  Utility companies that provide individual green power sources will prosper.  The cost of building and maintaining the grid and additional power plants – antiquated, dangerous, dirty ways to provide power – should go into replacing those systems with local, safe, clean green power.

So much worry after Sandy was about trying to assure that people had a warm place to go and with each building having its’ own power source the problems of loss of utilities is minimized.  It is foolhardy that almost everyone relies completely on a grid system, it ill advised to continue down this path. Let’s get off our grid addiction and put resources into local and individual collecting and storing of green energy for their essential needs.  The technology exists but a boost in support and demand will help it.  The corporations that own the power plants and profit from selling us utilities will do everything they can to keep us addicted to fossil fuels and the grid.  We need to be informed citizens when deciding what to invest in and placing our personal and government focus on this matter.  Move forward for change to reduce oil dependency, nuclear dependency, fossil fuel dependency and pollution and reduce the risk of being left out in the cold by gaining energy independence rather than dumping our hard earned money into the tangled old corporate grid.

Save Gas and Travel Safely

This topic has been on our minds for at least a generation but as fuel prices remain near record highs and the environmental and human cost of extracting oil becomes more widely understood it deserves the spotlight. The days of just hopping into your car and going for a ride without thinking are over for many of us and I strongly encourage everyone to keep conscientious about their time spent behind the wheel for a number of reasons.
Instead of traveling a great distance for entertainment or vacation plans whenever possible seek out local destinations. Most cities and counties in our area publish events calendars and we are fortunate to have a wide range of cultural and recreational options at our fingertips in NJ. From professional theater to big name concerts to historic sites and museums to amusement parks and beautiful forests and beaches we really do have it all here. Why fuss with long road trips or costly flights? Many times you can effectively use the buses or trains to get to your destination, bypassing traffic or the hassle of driving. Living in New Brunswick I once challenged myself to spend a whole month without making any unnecessary trips out of town and found that there was plenty to do within walking distance. I was not lacking for entertainment, restaurants, educational or social resources.
When you do need to drive there are some simple things you can do to save gas, time and stress. The value of keeping your auto tuned up, oil changed and tire air pressure at the proper rates cannot be emphasized too much, it can save you so much hassle and protect your vehicle from failure as well as optimizing gas mileage. Always keep appropriate emergency supplies in the vehicle but remove any unnecessary weight – such as golf clubs you never use; a lighter load means a longer stretch between stops at a gas station. Listen to the radio or check your electronic devices for traffic conditions before setting off and time and map your trip to try to avoid congestion. Use your maps, GPS or well written directions to plot your course to unfamiliar destinations in advance to avoid getting lost or going out of your way. Never drive distracted – using phones and hand held devices causes too many tragic accidents so always pull over somewhere safe before you do your talking, texting or data enter a new route, etc. There is no telephone conversation on this planet worth risking the lives of those on the road for!
If you have a choice of vehicles in your household use the most efficient one whenever possible and reap savings over time. If you are fortunate enough to have discretion when auto shopping there are more choices available each year including some all electric cars that don’t add any emissions to the roadway and make minimal pollution through the power grid versus an internal combustion engine. Pay careful attention to the advertised miles per gallon when auto shopping as otherwise similar cars can have quite dramatically different mpg. In the used car market there are now more choices as well and EPA mpg ratings can be found on line going back many years for virtually all makes and models.
Most of us have heard this repeatedly but considerr mass transit and carpooling whenever possible. In some locales the bus and train lines are relatively extensive and in New Brunswick one can readily hop on a train to Liberty Newark Airport, NYC and Philadelphia and major points beyond. When one factors in auto mileage, tolls and parking as well as driver fatigue mass transit can be a good deal. As for carpooling, some businesses may offer a networking service to help arrange carpools for employees and this is worth looking into. Of course if you have friends or family members that routinely travel to the same or close destinations to yours see if carpooling can work. In my social circle there is a loose, informal system where people ask each other if they need anything when one person is going to a distant specialty store or supply house, etc. and this is a great time saver and courtesy as well as an easy way to reduce gas use. Have shopping lists all in one place arrange errands to accomplish tasks in one trip. Keep an eye on gas prices at various stations when you travel so you can find the best deal before you have to fill up. And if you can go local, walking or bicycling to nearby destinations and benefit your health and the health of the planet.

Energy Efficient Lighting Revisited

LED bulbs light up an historic stair hall using less than 2 watts per bulb

New regulations are slated to go into effect this year to remove incandescent bulbs from 40-100 watts from the market, with the exception of specialty bulbs.  So we will all need to select from the newer bulbs soon.   Since about 90% of the energy used by ordinary bulbs is wasted in the form of heat rather than light they are ideal for an Easy Bake™ oven but not for utility bills or the environment. Their major advantages have been low price, warm light, and ease of dimming.

Halogen bulbs can provide high levels of light with less energy. Close to conventional lighting in looks and performance they are useful where appearance is important or for proper functioning in dimmers and some timers or security lighting.  But for most uses the popular replacement is the Compact Fluorescent Light in spiral glass form.  Unlike the earlier generation of CFLs one can choose color ranges from cool to warm and many bulbs start bright without a warm up.  They’re now available with outer glass shells imitating decorative bulbs.   Fluorescents contain hazardous mercury so take care to avoid breakage and assure correct disposal. ‘Low mercury content’ bulbs can be chosen too.  Dimmable versions I’ve tried are costly and don’t perform very well.  A 3-Way CFL bulb that goes medium – dim  – high worked well, but low – medium – high wattage CFLs did not work all the time.  Motion detector lights and in-wall electronic timers are generally not compatible with CFLs – check literature before using them together.  CFL flood/spotlights do not fit in all regular fixtures without a socket extender.

Environmentally the major critique of CFLs is the mercury.  A study I read claimed the amount of mercury emitted at the power plant to burn a 60 watt incandescent bulb was greater than the total amount used both in manufacture and powering of an equivalent CFL for the same period of time.  Whether or not this is completely accurate is a question but I would surmise that the 75% or so reduction in power consumed per CFL versus incandescent is cumulatively better for the environment, especially with a ‘low mercury’ bulb that actually works for several years before needing disposal.  Still fluorescent technology will need more improvement in performance and toxicity to be ideal.

I’ve found that Light Emitting Diodes are rather costly and somewhat limited in wattages and styles thus far though there is great improvement over several years ago on both fronts. As consumer demand grows the costs are likely to go down and hopefully more manufacturers will come into the marketplace with advancing designs.  LEDs can be up to 10 times more efficient than incandescent bulbs and they make very little heat.  While all bulb manufacture involves toxic processes I have heard very little press about this for LEDs and the claims are that the bulbs last 10 years or so in many cases.  I have LED night lights that are ¼ of a watt that are as useful as my old 4 watt night light bulbs. They claim they cost less than 25 cents a year to run versus 4 dollars for the old lights – add that kind of savings up with larger bulbs around the house and you can grasp the benefits of paying more up front.  We now have LEDs that are equivalent to 25 watt bulbs that use just 2 watts allowing us to leave lighting on in halls and other hazard prone areas while lowering our utility bill.  And bulbs in hard to reach spots won’t need to be changed as often.  I haven’t tried costly dimmable LEDs yet, though I note that they are selling dimmers to use with these too. The implication is that neither expensive dimmable LEDs nor dimmable CFLs work right with ordinary dimmers.  Hopefully they will fix these glitches. I also note many homes with less ample circuitry will benefit safety wise from lights that reduce strain on the wiring.  The new bulbs demand a fraction of the power of old bulbs so there is less likelihood of overloading and tripping the circuits or of overheating the wiring.  These bulbs are also unlikely to scorch or melt fabric or plastic shades or start a fire as conventional bulbs sometimes do. Strands of party lights are now also available in LED and these are becoming very popular for economic reasons as well as for running cool – some even run for an adequate time on solar or battery power.  When it comes to using watts, less is more.

Vacuum It Right!

Carpets and rugs predate electric vacuum cleaners by thousands of years. Today we don’t have to toil to drag carpets outside to shake and beat them. But your vacuum may not perform well or may not work for every job. For a really clean space know how to optimize your choices.
Prestige vacuums are expensive and may not do a better job anyway. Most of us must use what we have or choose a modestly priced new or used one. Older vacuums were designed to last a long time and are usually serviceable so having one can be an advantage. Most household vacuums are either upright, canister or shop vacuums. When shopping read the reviews and try those that interest you to find a good personal fit, considering weight, noise level and suitability for your cleaning tasks.
All vacuums have an exhaust and particles get blown back out. The bag acts as a filter and some have additional washable or disposable filters to reduce what comes back out. Ensure filters are maintained and use the best bags for optimal filtration. One vacuum uses water as a filtering system and claims to trap all the particles so this might be a good choice for those concerned about dust allergies or sensitivities. The exhaust end on some vacuums doubles a blower by placing the hose on it. This can be used to blow dust from under refrigerators or radiators. Place a large damp towel at the far end of such items prior to blowing to catch most of the dust. Only vacuum up liquid with units designed for this purpose, such as shop vacuums, and ensure the proper wet filter is in place. These can be helpful after a flood or to empty a clogged sink or malfunctioning washing machine. You can buy bagless vacuums, but avoid emptying the dirt canister indoors or you will redistribute dust.
For decades years we used a 1940s upright mother called the ‘miracle machine’. I don’t think it ever needed service aside from replacing belts, which anyone modestly handy can do. This vacuum had the essential beater bar. This motor driven bar with small brushes ‘beats’ the carpet. A vacuum that relies on suction alone can’t thoroughly clean carpet. Uprights have beater bars built in and canisters have them as attachments. The more you vacuum a carpet the longer it lasts; otherwise dirt and dust collect deep down and cause fibers to decay. For delicate or valuable rugs avoid the use of beater bars. Accessories for use with a hose include crevice tool, upholstery brush and dust brush. Most canister vacuums allow you to reduce suction for cleaning draperies and upholstery.
I choose a used canister vacuum that is generally $40 or less at estate or yard sales. It looks like a large loaf of bread on wheels. These were very costly originally and have remained popular. They usually work reliably and accessories and bags remain available.
When a vacuum is not working well check if a dirt cup or bag is full or a filter is clogged. Some old units have cloth bags that can be hand rinsed and let dry to improve suction. When vacuuming fine powder or plaster, bags need frequent replacement as they clog before they’re full. If there is still a problem unplug and examine closely. On uprights a short piece of flexible hose between the base and bag may need unclogging. A kinked or internally damaged hose is the Achilles heel of canister vacuums. If the vacuum has much better suction when the hose is disconnected the hose needs service or replacing. Vacuums cannot handle socks, leaves, cellophane or anything sticky or large enough to get stuck in them. If your hose is plastic and doesn’t contain internal wiring you can detach it and run water through to flush it clean and dry it overnight. Try blowing hoses out by putting them in the exhaust end and aiming the other end into the intake or aim outside and turn on. A heavy but small diameter chain that fits safely in, lowered into a disconnected hose may knock the clog out but keep hold of the end of the chain so it doesn’t get stuck itself. Beater bars jam on fringe or a build up of loose filaments. After use take a scissor or utility knife and clean out hair and threads caught and wound around the bar. Always store your vacuum in a dry location to avoid internal corrosion and carefully drape the hose so it does not kink.