Repairing or replacing an entry door?

A friend who lives on Cape Cod was asking what to do with her steel entry door, styled in imitation of a traditional 9 light / two raised panel ‘colonial’ door. The door has some rust but maintains it’s overall integrity and she is on a budget. Here are some thoughts about her query and about vintage entry doors and replacement options in general:

The steel entry doors are very prone to rust in the Cape environment. One of my apartments has one of these doors that was not in great shape. I’ve refreshed it cosmetically with paint but I’m aware that it will have to be replaced after a while. It was a later door chosen by a former owner. It doesn’t suit my taste nor does the faux colonial style harmonize with the 1960s modern house. I hope to find a well made second hand wooden door of an appropriate style at a salvage yard or Habitat Restore.

For minor dings or holes there is the possibility of patching with automotive filler (Bondo is a common brand name). It is rather economical and strong. If properly used, shaped and painted it will provide a decent repair depending on how bad the damage is that may last several years. My old work truck looked presentable for 27 years partially due to applying that product to damaged area promptly. It does produce noxious fumes that can annoy people for a couple of days after use. I would work with it during good weather outside or where there is very ample ventilation. I wouldn’t recommend it be used inside; especially not when you will be home soon afterwards. Because they also make a version that can repair damaged wood I sometimes use it for antique carvings, windows and other special items that I want to preserve.  It seems a lesser evil than disposing of good old things that can’t be repaired on a budget with conventional wood filler or wood patches. If you do go the two part epoxy patch path with the door and are sensitive to the odors you might want to slate it for just before you are going to be heading out.

New metal doors or wood doors are readily available and if your door is a popular size and the frame is intact a door may be rather affordable. Replacement of the door gives you the advantage of choosing any configuration or style of door that will fit the opening … you could go with full length glass or a different configuration of panes and panels as you see fit to match your taste and decor. Where the door is visible from the street I recommend you key your door style to the architecture. For example avoid selecting a fancy “Victorian” door with floral stained glass or a large oval window for a clean line ranch or modern style house. If you have an Early American style house consider a traditional raised panel style door. If the house was architect designed or custom built  the original front door was  often carefully chosen as part of a complete design scheme. Every element in a good house was professionally thought out. So it is best to try to preserve the original door if you have it or select something in the proper vein. You can do a comparison between intact original entries and remodeled ones in your area to help guide you. If the current door is in poor shape or is of low quality choose something new that you like and that will enhance the house rather than clash with it.  Juxtaposing styles is best left to professionals. Many homes where someone has had the urge to ‘modernize’ or ‘add charm’ with a new entry door have ended up with a jarringly discordant note or a trendy ‘update’ that quickly looks dated, or has no personality and is just like the ‘special’ the neighbors purchased for their homes.

This photo shows an original pair of double doors on our 1963 home.  A former owner had removed glass inserts and filled the space with plywood.  By luck we found vintage ornamental glass at Historic Albany Foundation in the right size and installed it, here one is in place. In the next image both have been installed. Seen from the inside here it is clear that the doors have their own proportion and personalities true to the era of the house. The third photo shows another house of similar age in our area that we encountered later which an original door with the same proportion and same ornamental glass confirming our choice!  It is hard to imagine a new door ‘off the rack’ that could be as appropriate for this house.

It should be pretty easy to peruse sites such as the big box home repair stores on line to see what styles can be chosen from. If you find the natural wood look attractive there are finishes that can be used to stain and seal and bring out the grain as an alternative to paint, though these often require frequent recoating.  I tend to find a well made, strong wooden door to last longer and be more attractive than a steel door. If you live where there is sea spray or severe weather you will want to research your options for doors designed for the harsher environments.  Also if you are going to use a storm door select one where the glass area of the storm door is at least as large as the glass area of the inner door and generally one that is neutral or harmonious in style so as not to detract from the inner door. Sometimes one needs a security storm door and these may be best softened with ornamental cast metal scroll work when the house lends itself to such.

As you know they are getting better with making low and no VOC paints and finishes. The conventional finish for a metal door has been an oil base paint (such as Rustoleum) and these remain very durable though they give off fumes for perhaps a week or more. I have limited my use of these over the past few years. I would only apply them if the client is totally set on them or where I feel they are absolutely necessary (such as for really vulnerable exposed surfaces like an exterior metal roof, metal cellar entry bulkhead or metal patio furniture … and these items are fortunately often far enough from the occupants inside for the odors to not disturb them too much). I don’t use them on interior surfaces when anyone will be inside in the near future, or I paint such items outside or in an unused and well ventilated garage and wait for them to dry for as long as possible before bringing them in. Still, whenever possible I’d recommend that for both your health and that of the painter that you choose a no or low VOC product that is made for exterior doors of wood or metal as you select.

Whatever door you have or add keep an eye on it and periodically have the finish touched up or refreshed at the first signs of rust,  peeling or wearing out is the best way to protect the door. Preservationists often consider the paint or other finish to be the sacrificial protective skin for the structure.  If you properly prepare and patch the surface and put the proper paint on it in the optimal manner you can prolong the life of the components of the house substantially, even parts that are already showing some wear or decay.  The most economical way to maintain a house is to promptly and consistently tend to such things.